If you're in New England this summer, and you've a chance to spend a day or two or three in Providence, Rhode Island, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. I've always loved Providence, but the renaissance it's been through in the last twenty years is amazing. With gracious colonial neighborhoods, equally beautiful Victorian mansions, and several ethnic sections, as well a newly transformed downtown and the Rhode Island School of Design Museum, and other galleries, Providence is a treat for many senses.

And something new has been added--WATERFIRE. Attending my class reunion at Brown University recently, many of us went "downtown" to see the spectacular water/fire/music installation created by artist Barnaby Evans. Briefly, WaterFire is a series of 100 bonfires suspended just above the surface of the Providence, Woonasquatucket, and Moshassuck Rivers (although they all seem to run together where WaterFire plays). Picture a huge circular area of water with a circle of 20 huge bonfires, each fire grandly reflected in the water inches below, the whole confluence being the foreground for the beautifully lit buildings of surrounding Providence. If this isn't enough, you may follow the living line of bonfires, along paths, under gently arched bridges, for almost a mile of river(s).

WaterFire occurs perhaps twenty times a summer, Saturdays and Sundays, and holidays. At nightfall the striking of the gong heralds the dark, the lighting of the fires, and the unusual and often haunting music.

A long black boat (actually several are used at different times, "Athena", "Prometheus", "Daedalus", etc. lots of symbols here) with a torch at its prow, glides silently around the ring, with black-clothed volunteers lighting the wood in braziers suspended just above the water. At the opposite end of the installation downriver another mysterious boat is lighting bonfires also. It is a slow and meaningful procession as each bonfire catches and flares up. Music plays all along the river and the flames dance in the air and in watery reflections.

I've seen other art installations; some are sort of interesting, some perhaps lovely, and some I wonder why the dirt is arranged in a triangle or the cloth stretched over ladders, etc. But WaterFire in detail, in scale, and in the way it engages every sense, is not only engrossing, but mysterious, speaking of ancient civilizations as well as the very creation of life. The ear is tuned to different musical selections during the evening (there are printed programs if you wish to know just what is being played, or you can just revel in the music) as well as the crackling of the fires and logs spitting, the sound of water, and the low buzz of humanity paying homage along the river banks and enjoying it all. You can certainly smell the fires but I also smelled the foliage, too (it was late spring). Touch--the stone wall of a bridge, the bark of a tree. And sight--the eyes are entranced by it all. (taste must wait until you go to an outdoor cafe nearby afterwards).

At the very end of the lit-up waters, on one bank of the river, is Market Square--there are some venders, but they are not intrusive. Rather, we were more fascinated by a monument which seemed to have some ornate griffin/gargoyles. Only these gargoyles came alive, gargoyles who were mimes, and who moved around, in just the manner you would imagine a gargoyle would move. Seriously. It was as though a part of Notre Dame or some other cathedral or palace came alive.

There are two gondolas and a larger open-air boat and for a fee, you can glide along the perimeter of the installation. Again, these do not intrude on the whole idea, but just add motion to the motion of the fire and the water (and we are only talking about 3 boats on the whole length; I had to wait quite a while to get a photo with a gondola and a bonfire).

This is a community adventure--rich, poor, middle class, all ages are enjoying the installation, fire, water, colors, music, reflections. And it may be enjoyed from dusk until 1 a.m. as community volunteers (wo)man the boats which quietly and unobtrusively add more logs to the braziers as the evening goes on. Never have I seen such an art installation (and now Barnaby Evans is building one for Venice, Italy)!

Information: 401/272-3111, www.waterfire.org